What makes a great lawn

IN THE GARDEN; What Makes a Great Lawn? Sound Practices

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By Joan Lee Faust

IT is possible to have a beautiful lawn without the use of pesticides. But the burden is on the gardener. A lush, strong turf, without the chemicals, will thrive and have few troubles, but its success will depend on how well some practices are followed. Here are some basics to keep in mind.

The most popular lawn is Kentucky bluegrass, which is noted for its velvet texture and ruggedness. Several cultivars have been bred and if a solid bluegrass lawn is insisted upon, then a blend of several of these cultivars is best.

But for practical purposes it is often wiser to grow a mixture of grasses that includes perennial ryegrass and fine fescues. Of course, this kind of information is best put to use when a new lawn is seeded, in September. But if the lawn is already green and growing, then all the good maintenance methods should be followed.

What is underneath supporting all those grass roots is important. Just because it cannot be seen, it doesn’t mean it should be ignored. Although the advice to have your soil tested is heard many times, there is good reason. Nutrients in the soil and fertilizers are most readily available (soluble) to grass roots when the pH reading between 6 and 7. A pH reading below 6 indicates that the soil is acid and the more acid it is, the more the lawn nutrients are unavailable. An appearance of moss in the lawn is a good indicator of an acid-type soil.

As for vital grass nutrients, iron especially is tied up at low soil pH.

The solution for low pH (acid soil) is an application of lime, but this quantity must be calculated carefully by professionals, usually after a soil-test report is returned. Most state colleges test soil through their cooperative extension offices.

Lawn feeding is one area where overdosing is common. The commercial hype for sales is overwhelming sometimes. If applied fertilizer is not absorbed by the grass roots, it ends up in the aquifers and water-supply system, encouraging the growth of algae and cutting off the supply of oxygen in the water. Since grass roots keep functioning into the early winter months, fall applications of fertilizer will be readily absorbed to stir development of a strong root system.

Norman W. Hummel Jr., one of the turf and grass experts at Cornell University, recommends lawn feeding two or three times annually. For a two-time feed it should be done in the spring and again in early fall. For a three-time feed, applications are made in late spring, early fall and late fall.

This is an important facet of lawn maintenance. Set the mower to cut high, about three inches and no lower than two inches. »There is a direct relationship between mowing height and the size of the root system,» Mr. Hummel said. »The shorter the mowing height, the shallower the root system will be, making the lawn more susceptible to drought injury.»

The motto for mowing is follow the one-third rule. That is, if the lawn is three inches high, then mow so that the grass becomes two inches high. (Be sure the mower blade is sharp enough to cut, not tear, the grass blades.)

Here is another bit of advice: Environmental Defense, a national advocacy group, notes that »Mowing the lawn with a gas mower produces as much pollution in half an hour as driving a car 172 miles.» This fact may help to explain the recent surge in the sales of the good old-fashioned push mowers or the battery-powered mowers.

Summer is on the way with its heat, humidity and drought. The grass reacts by going dormant. But too many homeowners forget this and dash out with the sprinklers, or worse, install underground sprinklers to keep their lawns green. Shallow watering in the summer weakens the grass and usurps valuable ground water. It is discouraging to see timed underground sprinklers going strong during a summer shower.

The key then to lawn care without pesticides is to maintain a strong, deep-rooted turf. If troubles do occur, then the rules of Integrated Pest Management should follow. Joseph Heller, an educator at the Westchester Education Center of Cornell Cooperative Extension, described it as »scouting and monitoring» in a search for clues about the problem.

The sight of one bug should never mean a dash for the spray can. Find out what is really going on, then apply a practical solution.

The Great American Lawn: How the Dream Was Manufactured

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The Great American Lawn: How the Dream Was Manufactured

America’s lawns represent the pride of homeownership and community. But maintaining them risks contributing to climate change. So why do we even have lawns in the first place? We traced their history.

Announcer: “Pretty important stuff, grass. Behind every blade there’s one of the biggest stories in the world.” Here’s a big story for you: the history of the American lawn. Those rows of small green plants that require endless upkeep, host countless communal rituals, and, for many, symbolize the pride of homeownership. All this has made grass the most irrigated plant in the country. But pursuing the perfect lawn has led Americans to dump millions of pounds of pesticides onto their grass, some of which can potentially leach into water supplies. Gas lawnmowers and other equipment have emissions that contribute to climate change. All of this to create land that has limited habitat potential. But check this out. Most of this grass wasn’t always here. It’s not native to the United States. So how did all this begin? How do we get from pristine wilderness to identical rows of manicured nature? Let’s start in the 1600s. Europeans are colonizing America. They bring farm animals. Those animals love the local grass. They love it so much, they consume it all. There’s no more left. The animals start to starve. So the colonists import foreign seeds to grow new grass for the animals to eat. Example: You know that famous Kentucky Bluegrass? It covers sports stadiums and countless lawns — not from Kentucky. It’s actually native to places like Europe and North Africa. So the new foreign grass grows. The colonies grow. Tensions between the colonists and Britain grow. Then there’s a revolution. And what’s General Washington doing a month after independence is declared? He’s writing home to his estate manager about landscaping plans. He’s talking about things like flowering shrubs and planting locust trees, making groves. See, Washington and Thomas Jefferson are die-hard fans of European landscape architecture. The rich in Europe are building great, sprawling lawns that have no agricultural value. They’re purely status symbols. So Washington and Jefferson help popularize these great lawns in America, but only for those who can afford it. And these lawns come on the backs of slaves. Tools like these keep the grass groomed. It’s grueling, endless work. Time goes by. It’s the early 1800s when there’s a big mechanical innovation in lawn care. An engineer in southwest England is working on machinery for a clothing mill when he gets an idea. Maybe the same mechanics at the clothing mill could work for cutting grass. He’s right and files a patent for the first lawnmower in 1830. Lawnmowers reached the U.S. about 40 years later. But for most of America, lawns still aren’t all that common. In her book “The Lawn,” author Virginia Scott Jenkins uses this painting as an example. The ground where these boys play is covered with wildflowers and packed dirt. There’s no manicured lawn. But by the 1870s, we also see American culture slowly start to embrace lawns for the privileged masses. Suburbs had begun to grow after the Civil War. Some are designed with large, grassy areas. They’re inspired by new urban parks with their own sprawling lawns. Then there’s the cultural impact of this highly influential book from 1870, “The Art of Beautifying Suburban Home Grounds.” It tells wealthy suburbanites what needs to be done to have the perfect lawn, in detail. It also tells them that having the perfect lawn is part of what makes a model citizen. After all, the spread of railroads and streetcars means more people are on the move for greater distances, gazing out windows and possibly judging the neighborhoods they travel through. Then just before Christmas in 1871, a man from Buffalo, N.Y. gets some good news. His name is Joseph Lessler and his patent application has been approved. It’s for the first sprinkler that connects to a garden hose. And garden hoses are only possible because cities can now pipe water into individual homes on a grand scale. This is when the lawn care market becomes big business. We see ads for mowers that are “easy to operate,” “self-sharpening.” The effectiveness of ads gets a boost from advances in color printing and the advent of these so-called trade cards. They’re basically like business cards. They pop with color. They advertise the hell out of lawn and garden products. And as more people get flashier ads, those ads change from simply selling tools to selling ideas about the lawn’s place in society. Take a look at this trade card from around 1880. What’s it telling us? It’s selling a lawnmower, that’s obvious enough. But look in the background. There’s people playing lawn sports. It’s a subtle hint that a well-kept lawn can lead to good times, especially for the wealthy, who can afford clothes like these and a house like this. In 1914, The Times publishes a short piece about former President Teddy Roosevelt. The news is he’d just mown his lawn for a day to take a break from politics. It just goes to show that even back then, this idea of yard work as a relaxing pastime is already becoming part of the culture. By the 1920s, something else is becoming a big part of American culture — golf. The U.S. Department of Agriculture develops tougher, lower-maintenance grass spurred by demands of golf courses. So the grass gets better and more people have lawns because many returning World War II veterans get low-cost home loans. And there’s more access to suburbs because the interstate system is expanding. Historian Ted Steinberg calls these rows of tidy lawns an “outdoor expression of ’50s conformitism.” But that conformitism isn’t meant for everyone. “I moved here because it was a white community.” “And we understood that it was going to be all white and we were very happy to buy a home here.” People of color often faced discrimination when buying in these new suburbs. Lawns become iconic symbols of an American dream that’s recognized by most, but attainable only to some. Those who can, continue to chase the dream. This graph, published by historian Virginia Scott Jenkins, shows the number of lawn care articles appearing in popular magazines over time. The post-World War II lawn boom is here, the beginning of the modern lawn care era. Better technology brings more ways to spend time and money to achieve the perfect lawn. And so it continues. So that’s how we got here. If you’ve ever had to spend your Saturdays mowing lawns, there’s a long list of characters you have to thank. About five minutes into the video, I mentioned this Times article about Teddy Roosevelt cutting grass. It’s kind of wild that Roosevelt’s lawn care was considered news fit to print. So just in case you’re curious about this front-page news, let me read part of it to you. “Colonel Roosevelt refused to discuss politics today. He got in a lot of good vigorous exercise. For three hours he pushed a lawnmower about on the lawns at Sagamore Hill, and the exercise did not seem to tire him at all.”

America’s manicured front lawns represent the pride of homeownership, and the cultivation of community. But the ways we maintain them risk hurting the environment and contributing to climate change. So why do we even have lawns in the first place? We traced their history, starting with early European colonists.

Below, you’ll find some of the sources that helped us the most and other tidbits we weren’t able to fit into the video.

Selected Sources and Further Reading

There are two books that offer robust overviews of lawns in American culture. First, is Virginia Scott Jenkins’ “The Lawn: A History of an American Obsession” which begins all the way back in colonial times.

Ted Steinberg’s “American Green: The Obsessive Quest for the Perfect Lawn” focuses mostly on the 20th century, and includes a chapter on golf’s role in lawn development. He also provides data on the relationship of lawns to the environment and climate change.

Speaking of climate data, in 2005, NASA published this report on a quest to quantify how much area lawns take up in the United States.

Advertisements called trade cards were instrumental in promoting lawn equipment. One of the biggest influences on their development was printer Louis Prang. But, as the New-York Historical Society writes, he’s also known for being the “father of the American Christmas card.”

Prang’s company was famous earlier for printing maps of Civil War battles. You can see some here at the Library of Congress.

The video mentions Frank J. Scott’s 1870 book “The Art of Beautifying Suburban Home Grounds,” and its impact on lawn care. Here’s a link to all 702 pages of the book if you want to see what all the 19th-century fuss was about.

Near the end of the video, we discuss housing discrimination toward people of color in 1950s suburbia. The man shown watering his lawn is William Myers, a World War II veteran who faced racist attacks after buying a home in Levittown, Pa. Here’s more about what happened.

More Lawn Coverage from the Times

The Times’ “Climate Fwd:” newsletter published some tips on how to lessen your lawn care’s environmental impact.

Our Real Estate columnist Ronda Kaysen explained why she’s done mowing her lawn.

If you do mow your lawn, here’s a way to practice meditation as you go.

Finally, as mentioned in the video, here’s The Times’ coverage of former President Theodore Roosevelt mowing his lawn in 1914.

How to level a lawn

When it comes to mowing the lawn there’s nothing more frustrating than trying to manoeuvre over lumps and bumps. A level lawn doesn’t just look great and make for easier maintenance, it can have a few other advantages too.

For gardens with drainage and water logging issues, levelling and grading the lawn can assist in encouraging water flow away from your property whilst allowing more water to be absorbed into the soil and adding needed nutrients.

What causes a lawn to be uneven?

There are a number of ways that your lawn can become bumpy or uneven and these are some of the main culprits:

Animals

From neighbourhood cats to pesky foxes looking for food, animals are a main cause of uneven lawns as they will happily stray into your garden in the months your lawn is at its most vulnerable. There are steps you can take to prevent these critters from ruining your lawn.

The other animals (the kids!)

If children are playing in the garden when the soil is soft it can put a large amount of pressure on the lawn. This is not only bad for the health of the grass but will cause long term issues for the soil surface.

Nightcrawlers

These giant earth worms can be a real nuisance when trying to perfect your lawn. These little invertebrates shift between 20 and 25 tons of soil per acre to the surface every year. A great tip to prevent them from becoming a problem is to keep the pH level of your soil low.

Waterlogging

In the winter months the weather can play a big part in causing lumps and bumps in your lawn. If surface water is allowed to sit on your lawn it can cause long term damage, which is why getting your drainage right is so important.

Soil settlement

Things that occur beneath the soil such as rocks, piping and other debris can affect the composition of your lawn. The best course of action to resolve this is to excavate the affected areas and break up the rubble underneath.

Preparing to level your lawn

If your lawn is looking uneven with a few too many dips, help is at hand. Before starting, the lawn will need to be checked thoroughly in advance to determine how much requires levelling and if there are any existing drainage problems. Sometimes uneven ground can be caused as a result of drainage problems or even damaged water pipes.

Check for low spots and drainage issues

If low spots are occurring in locations around water pipes then seek professional advice before continuing. If drainage issues are discovered it is recommended to re-grade the lawn as well as levelling, creating a surface that slopes away from the property to aid drainage and avoid flooding. Alternatively, an underground drainage system can be fitted using either gravel or flexible drainpipes. Other causes for bumps and hollows can be due to wear and tear, mole damage, drought or frost.

There are two main methods for levelling a lawn depending on the extent of damage to the area. All low spots across the garden should be checked for depth to help decide which method will work best. Both methods will require soil for top dressing a lawn and this will consist of two parts sand, two parts topsoil and one part compost. This mix will fill out the desired areas while improving drainage and the compost in it allows for a nutrient rich soil to be formed.

Pre-water your lawn for levelling

Several days before you plan to level it, the lawn it will need to be watered to ensure that the soil is not too hard, dry or powdery for making the adjustments. Be careful not to over water as wet soil can be just as hard to work with as overly dry soil.

When to level your lawn

The best time of year to start your repairs is in spring once frosts have passed and grass is actively growing. This will allow grass seed time to grow in whilst providing sufficient moisture for the soil to settle. As mentioned previously there are two main methods for levelling; one for shallow low spots and one for low spots deeper than 2-3cms.

Levelling shallow low spots on your lawn

For areas that are only 1-2cm lower than the rest of the soil the top dressing mixture can be applied directly. Shake out a thin layer over the problem area and spread evenly using a garden rake until it is completely filled out and level.

Using your feet and the flat side of the rake, tamp down and compact the soil. Lightly water the soil to further aid compaction and leave to settle. Repeat this process for all shallow areas that need attention.

Once the soil has been left to settle for a few days grass seed can be distributed, followed by a further light dusting of topsoil mix, then pat down gently with the palm of your hand. For the first 48 hours the soil will need a light spray of water 4 times per day to assist in germinating the seeds.

Then water regularly and allow time for the grass seed to grow. Another application can be done if there are low or bare spots remaining after it has settled.

Levelling deep low spots on your lawn

For the areas that have sunk more than 2cm deep a different method to level your lawn will be required. For this you will need a squared-off shovel. Using the shovel slice into the centre and beyond the edges of the bump or hollow in a cross shape. Try to keep the cut as even as possible to make it easier to lift without breaking.

Cut to about 4-5cm deep then slide the shovel underneath to cut each section of the cross horizontally, keeping the shovel as flat as possible to maintain an even thickness of soil. This is where it is essential that the soil is not too dry as it will crumble when moved. Gently peel back the edges of the turf until you can lay them flat without breaking.

To level a bump in the lawn dig out the excess soil until level with the surrounding area, tread down and fold the flaps of turf back over.

To fill a hollow use a garden fork to turn over the soil to about 5cm deep, removing any large stones and breaking down any large clumps. Tread down to compact the soil to reduce the chance of further sinking afterwards.

Fill the hole with your top dressing mixture until level with the surrounding area, then rake over to break the soil down before folding the flaps of turf back over.

At this stage you will need to tamp the turf back down, starting at the outer edges of the cross section and working towards the centre. Fill any remaining gaps between the cuts made with more top dressing to stop the edges from drying out. Lawn seed can also be sprinkled in the gaps to cover and fill them. Water regularly and allow for the grass seed to grow.

Once you have completed all the areas required, a wooden 2×4 and a spirit level can be used to check the grade and level of the lawn. So for those of you that thought it could only be done by a professional, follow these easy steps and you could have your own perfectly level lawn!

Check out our video tutorials for how to achieve a great looking lawn on our YouTube channel here.

See our information on lawn care here.

Characteristics Of A Great and Healthy Lawn

Besides having a properly trimmed hedge and well-maintained garden and house, you need to have a great lawn to complement your good looking compound. Many homeowners in Baltimore desire to have great lawns, but end up frustrated when there are patches or dried grass in the compound.

Of course, overgrown and lawn full of pests are other reasons many homeowners give up on their lawns. However, lawn care doesn’t require much of professionalism, especially if you got tips from an expert lawn care services on what to be doing routinely to maintain a healthy lawn.

Routine Practices for Your Lawn

Some of the routine practices that these experts will recommend include:

Well, some of these services could be difficult and tricky for you to carry out, especially mowing an overgrown lawn, filling up patches, keeping it free from pests and diseases, and even fertilizing. You may mow your lawn very lowly which instead of growing and becoming vibrate it withers and starts decaying. Again, fertilizing with the wrong fertilizer can easily cause your grass to dry.

Pests and diseases can completely destroy your lawn and you may not know which pest or disease is making your lawn grass to dry daily. This is where you need professionals from Baltimore lawn care service to look at the cause of your problem and deal with it. So what can make you say your lawn is healthy and no need of having the lawn care services?

Features Of A Healthy Lawn

1. It is Well-Leveled

You will not find any places within the lawn that have holes or lack grass. In order to fill those holes, you can call professional do yourself if you have time. However, professional services are always better. Bumps can also be sliced if they are higher than the usual level.

2. Weed-Free

Your Baltimore lawn care service can help you when it comes to controlling weeds. You can decide to pull by hand, hand cutting or using a herbicide. Using herbicide can be tricky, especially when you don’t have thorough knowledge of the chemical to use. A professional lawn care services will be needed.

3. Good Color

Of course, a healthy lawn should be dark-green and shiny in color. A hungry lawn that needs some fertilizing and manure will always be yellow and dull. You can decide, by the guidance of a professional to do the liquid feeding and to water adequately and frequently as guided. Liquid fertilizers usually work faster than granular although they are expensive.

4. Cut At The Right Height

Avoid cutting the grass too low else you might have the grassroots exposed to the sun rays and that means your grass drying. Cut the grass at an optimum height depending on the type of your grass.

5. Pest And Disease-Free

A healthy lawn is not infested with pests and diseases. Using the right pesticides will require you to depend on the Baltimore lawn care service to do the job for you.

Conclusion

Having a healthy lawn is not for aesthetic purposes only, but it can increase the value of your home in case you are planning to sell it. The above tips will always enable you to identify an unhealthy lawn. So, is your lawn healthy?

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About the Author Laura Bennett

Hello, I’m Laura Bennett. I love nature especially when it comes to flowers and different kinds of plants. I started a very small garden behind my house and I named it Humid Garden. So, I created this blog to provide aspiring and inspiring thoughts about gardening for gardeners and anyone who has the intention of keeping a garden.

Lawn Care Renovation Begins

September 13, 2020 By Rich 2 Comments

Well, I shouldn’t say it begins, I procrastinated putting this post together for some time. Hopefully, over the next few weeks, I’ll have a breakdown of what I did to get my lawn looking healthy again. There are many reasons why I let my lawn get away from me, but the main one was just the sheer lack of wanting to put in the effort. Plenty of excuses.

Anyway, here we are. My last treatment of fertilizer and chemicals was back in April of 2019. I applied Scotts Turfbuilder and Crabgrass prevention. It turns out we had a huge amount of crabgrass in 2019 and of course, that led to more in 2020.

All I really did in 2019 and for most of 2020 was mow. Around July 2020, I really started to notice the crabgrass kick in and that is where I decided to make some efforts for this upcoming fall.

Table of Contents

My Lawn History

Before we get into all the ins and outs of what I’m doing to repair my grass, let’s go over where I’m coming from in the grass world. Since I was a kid, I loved nice grass. When I turned 12 I started my own lawn company. It was way easier back then compared to the commercial companies that exist today. I was able to build up to about 50 lawns and brought in a partner. That is a substantial amount of grass cutting for a 13-year-old. It also taught me to be an entrepreneur.

Since then, I’ve liked the look of a clean-cut and no weeds. I of course love a clean golf course and although I know I won’t get it that tight, I will strive for a nice look.

Lawn Situation and Size

I’ll get into some of the different situations below, but here is a look at what I’m dealing with. I have around 9,500 square feet of turf that leads up to a bluff. This bluff then drops down to a small beach and into the lake. My goal is to be cautious and environmentally responsible as possible.

The yard gets a lot of dog traffic from my 80-pound golden retriever and three neighbor dogs that love our yard. The yard also gets plenty of soccer and football play on it as well. Although mainly covered up by grass, I do have a large septic tank and leech field as well. Fun right?

Fifteen years ago the area where the grass lies now was all trees and forest. A large tree cutting project took place to free up space and create better views. Over time the area has definitely settled a bit. There are some holes and undulations throughout. Leveling the lawn is almost impossible. Being on the cliff, the yard is always going to shift and create new air pockets and other blemishes. The best thing I can do at this point is to establish a strong root system and let the grass work.

The soil is probably 50% sand but there is plenty of soil as well. I do get a fair amount of sun on the yard, but it is also protected by trees that provide the shade to keep the grass fairly healthy when the heat strikes. As for water, this will be a tough one. We live on a well, so I need to be careful with the amount of water we can waste. Watering the grass is a waste if you ask me. I will do my best to keep things moist during the seeding process, but I really hope mother nature brings the moisture it needs to germinate.

Also, be sure to check out my Rhodendron project post in the future. It will show what we had blocking our view and what I was able to do to bring grass to life.

Crabgrass

My number one nemesis when it comes to turf and gardens is crabgrass. I can’t stand this crap and when it takes over I get so irritated. Last year was pretty bad in terms of crabgrass and coming into this year I knew if I didn’t do something crabgrass would be double.

Guess what, it is everywhere. My lawn got overtaken by crabgrass. Quarantine came and I never made it to Lowe’s to get the Scotts crabgrass preventer ( Not the best, but it does help some). I usually put this down to help slow the crab. Unfortunately, without putting this down I received no relief. Just more seeds in the earth for next year. More about this later.

Garden Over Grass

I’m a firm believer in the garden over grass. It is way more important to grow food than grass. My situation has changed quite a bit over the years with all of my moves. My latest move in 2017, brought me to a location where growing a garden is difficult. I’m also located in a spot where I have a septic system. This makes my land difficult to grow food. I decided to stick with grass and make it as nice as I can.

Why Again?

I’ve renovated tons of lawns in my day. This time is no different. The only thing that is different is my experience. I’ve tried different products, systems, and many other things. I feel with more stay at home activity in the future, we might as well enjoy a nice space and view to look at. Actually, I’m on a lake so it will be nice to see a slick grass area leading up to the lake view.

What I’ve Done So Far

So, without much prevention in well over a year and with all of the crabgrass that populated, I decided I had to take drastic steps. I really don’t like chemicals for many reasons. I feel terrible using them, but at the same time, it may help in the long run so I don’t have to use them in the future.

On July 22, 2020, I applied my first chemicals. I used the product, Tenacity. The goal of this product is to kill crabgrass while keeping the good grass alive.

In the images below you can see what Tenacity does to the lawn. It bleaches the crabgrass white. This ugly look lasts a few weeks so be ready for that if you plan to use it.

Results – I followed all directions, used a surfactant, and dye for marking. I would say I killed about 62% of the crabgrass on my property. I thought about hitting it again after the bleaching went away, but I really didn’t want to see that again. Although Tenacity helped, it didn’t fully take care of the problem.

On August 10, 2020, I used a chemical called Quinclorac DF 85. This gets mixed into a sprayer and then applied just like the Tenacity.

Results – I was able to get rid of another 27% of the crabgrass in the lawn. This stuff leaves the dead crabgrass orange until it breaks down. It also burned out some of the areas in the lawn. Timing is key with this product.

Between the two chemicals, I was able to remove around 89% of the crabgrass. Not bad. Not 100%, but I really wasn’t expecting it to be a foolproof method.

Now that we are in September and with a lack of rain this year, I decided to hold off on some of the bigger projects. However, by doing this, new weeds started to pop up. I had a mix of clover, creeping charlie, Violet ivy, and one other I can’t remember. I decided to direct message The Lawn Care Nut on Twitter and he pointed me in a couple of directions. The stuff I wanted “T-Zone” was a few weeks out from being shipped so I went with the product Speed Zone.

Results – I applied using a sprayer and I’m starting to see these weeds die. This isn’t foolproof either, but it will help when I overseed in the coming weeks.

Plans Going Forward

Timing is key in all locations. People love to start applying their treatments right around Labor Day. I’ve done that more than once and run into more problems than I wish to explain. Around here, early and mid-September are some of the nicest weather days. If you push out the projects too early you won’t see the results.

If you have an irrigation system you would be in better shape, but for most of us, it’s best to wait until late Septemeber to put down the seed. This doesn’t mean you should stand idle, it means, don’t force the seeding or overseeding process.

In the past, I planted the seed in early September and for the following two weeks we had the warmest days of the year and no rain. The end result was about 15% sprout. Time wasted.

So, what now?

As we move forward into fall, I plan to do several different projects so the lawn has a fighting chance in the spring. These steps require time and money.

Details about all of these steps will follow in the next posts. Be sure to be on the lookout for more footage of the renovation.

About Rich

Entrepreneur looking to find new streams of income while living on the Lake. Bringing you honest reviews and more.